Vintage Race Boat Shop


G-48  Obsession

Page 8 - Edge-Bonding The Deck

In 2008, after 4 summers of hauling and hard running on the Vintage Race Boat Circuit, plus constant use on beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee, my beloved Obsession was back in the shop for some TLC, including some bottom work, fresh paint and varnish, and we have decided to also "edge-bond" the deck. The hull planks were edge-bonded with 3M-5200 adhesive four years ago, and we are very pleased with the results. They still look fresh, and the Epifanes #19 black enamel paint on the hull sides is also still in excellent shape. But the seams on the deck of the boat were "working" quite a bit, so it was time to edge bond them also, to improve the appearance, but more importantly, to add strength to the hull.

 

Click here for the start of our Edge-Bonding project - lots of photos.

 

The photos below show the boat before we started, still in excellent shape, but I am never satisfied. Yup, the boat is well named, for after 27 years of ownership and constant maintenance, my beloved Obsession keeps getting better and better !!!  

       

       

That's my riding mechanic Donnie McLean, cutting the "working" deck seams with a Makita 4 inch, circular saw. Two blades were used to get the width we wanted, and the cut was done just shy of the batten. The last photo shows the result, a nice clean open seam. After these photos were taken I just had to leave - could not take the pain !!!

       

     

After the deck seams were cut out, a V shaped file was used to widen and shape the seams. The V shape seam allows the nozzle of the 3M-5200 adhesive tube to ride in the seam during application, and gives this tenacious adhesive more bonding area. We then taped the seams, and began the very tedious and very messy application, using six tubes of black 3M-5200. This was a two person, two step job, first applying the adhesive with a caulking gun, and then packing the gooey mess into the seam - ensuring the seam is completely filled. After a week of curing, the results were a very nice looking and a very strong deck, that still flexes and matches the edge bonded hull sides.

 

       

       

       

             

 

While we were waiting for the 3M-5200 adhesive to cure, we started work on the black hull sides. First, Jerome Holden of JC Signs helped us remove the decals and lettering, and then we spent several days sanding the hull sides - first with 320 grit paper and then with Scotchbrite Pads. Then we applied two coats of Epifanes #19 black enamel paint, using our ever improving "rolling & wisking" technique.

 

       

       

       

   

 

After the new deck seams had fully cured, we applied the first of many build coats of Epifanes varnish. Before each coat, we sanded and faired the deck, first with 320 grit paper and then with Scotchbrite Pads. We then applied the very thick, amber tinted Epifanes varnish, using our "rolling & wicking" technique. At least six coats are planned, and because we thoroughly sand and fair the surface between each coat, the deck just keeps getting smoother and smoother.

 

       

       

       

     

     

 

And the results - absolutely stunning after just two coats.

 

     

 

After four coats, the boats is just beginning to really snap !!!

 

       

     

 

After four coats of varnish on the deck, we hoisted the boat up and started work on the bottom. We call this "bottom detailing" because we take extra time to thoroughly sand the bottom to expose any issues, spend the required time for repairs, and then build up the bottom paint coats with the same care as the deck varnish coats. The first step was a thorough sanding, and since the epoxy bottom was already pretty smooth, we spent two days sanding with 320 paper, and then a third day sanding with Scotchbrite pads. This was the same prep work that was done on the deck, and the results were well worth the effort.

 

Remember - if you wanna be fast, you gotta be smooth !!!

   

After the thorough sanding, we found two areas that need attention, a void in the second step/shingle and a separation in the aft step/shingle. The void was fixed by boring a hole and injecting epoxy with a syringe. We then cut out the wood separation area on the aft step, and then applied thickened epoxy coats until the area was level and smooth.

       

       

Then two coats of Interlux Brightside "Sea Green" paint was applied. This is a very high quality, very thick, polyurethane marine paint that contains Teflon. Although this is actually a topside paint, we have found it to be the best for fresh water bottom paint also. We apply it with our preferred "rolling & wicking" technique and the results are absolutely stunning.

       

       

Page 9 - Getting ready for Clayton & Wolfeboro

 


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